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Hub Rings Explained: When You Need Them (and When You Don’t)

Posted by BB Wheels on 27th Jan 2026

Hub Rings Explained: When You Need Them (and When You Don’t)

Hub Rings Explained: When You Need Them (and When You Don’t)

If you’ve shopped aftermarket wheels, you’ve probably noticed the center hole on the wheel can look larger than the hub on your vehicle. That gap is exactly what hub rings are made for.

Here’s the BB Wheels take: most aftermarket wheels are lug-centric, meaning the wheel is centered by the tapered lug nuts as you tighten them. Because of that, hub rings are often optional — not a requirement.

That said, hub rings can still be a smart add-on. They make installs easier and can reduce the chance of a “slightly off-center” mount during tightening, which can contribute to vibration on some setups.

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Hub ring diagram showing wheel center bore, hub ring, and vehicle hub

Hub rings fill the gap between the wheel center bore and the vehicle hub to help center the wheel during installation.

A hub ring fills the space between:

  • your vehicle’s hub diameter (the raised lip on the hub), and
  • the wheel’s center bore (the hole in the center of the wheel)

Their job is centering the wheel during installation.
They don’t replace lug nuts, they don’t “hold the vehicle up,” and they won’t fix unrelated problems. Think of them as a simple tool that helps the wheel sit centered while you torque the lugs.

When you should run hub rings

Hub rings are most useful when your wheel’s center bore is larger than your hub (very common with aftermarket wheels) and you want a smoother, more consistent install.

They’re a good idea if:

  • You’re installing wheels yourself (less fighting the wheel while starting lugs)
  • You want the cleanest possible centering during tightening
  • Your vehicle tends to be sensitive to small centering differences
  • You’ve had a vibration that seems to appear after a wheel swap (and balancing checks out)
  • You’re buying an install kit and want all mounting variables handled at once

When you can skip hub rings

Hub rings usually aren’t necessary if:

  • The wheel is already hub-centric for your vehicle (bore matches hub)
  • You’re using a lug-centric aftermarket wheel with the correct lugs and it installs smoothly
  • You’re not experiencing vibration and everything is properly torqued

Plenty of lug-centric wheel setups run perfectly without rings when the correct lug nuts are used and the wheels are installed correctly.

Do hub rings fix vibrations?

Sometimes — but only in a specific scenario.

Hub rings may help if vibration is caused by minor mis-centering during installation (for example: the wheel isn’t perfectly centered while the lugs are being snugged down).

Hub rings will not fix vibration caused by:

  • an out-of-balance tire/wheel
  • a tire with runout / road force variation
  • a bent wheel
  • rust/debris preventing the wheel from mounting flush
  • incorrect lug nuts (wrong seat type)
  • worn suspension/steering components

If a vibration shows up after a new wheel install, the usual order of operations is:

  • confirm correct lug nuts + correct torque procedure
  • ensure the hub face is clean and the wheel mounts flush
  • verify balance / road force if needed
  • consider hub rings as a centering aid if everything else checks out

How to choose the right hub ring size

Hub rings are defined by two numbers:

  • Outer diameter (OD) = your wheel’s center bore
  • Inner diameter (ID) = your vehicle hub diameter

Often shown like: 73.1 → 66.1 (wheel bore → hub)

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Ordering the numbers reversed
  • Guessing sizes instead of confirming hub and bore specs
  • Forcing a ring that doesn’t seat flat (that can create problems)

If you’re unsure, this is where a fitment check saves time — confirming hub and center bore is quick and prevents ordering the wrong ring.

Plastic vs aluminum hub rings

Both can work well when sized correctly.

High-temp plastic / polycarbonate

  • Great for most daily drivers
  • Resists corrosion and is less likely to seize to the hub
  • Best “set it and forget it” choice for a lot of climates

Aluminum

  • Very durable and handles heat well (performance-oriented use)
  • Can corrode or seize in harsh conditions if not cared for
  • A light touch of anti-seize is often used (where appropriate)

For many daily-driven setups, quality plastic rings are a popular, reliable choice.

Quick install checklist (prevents most issues)

  • Clean the hub face (rust and debris are a common cause of vibration)
  • Confirm the ring seats fully and flat
  • Start lug nuts by hand
  • Snug in a star pattern
  • Torque to spec with a torque wrench
  • Re-torque after 25–50 miles

Also: make sure you’re using the correct lug seat type for your wheels (conical/tapered is common on aftermarket wheels, but not universal).

Bottom line

Because most aftermarket wheels are lug-centric, hub rings are often optional. But they can still be worth it as a low-cost way to make installation easier and reduce centering variables — especially when you’re running a larger aftermarket center bore.

That’s why we often position hub rings as part of an install kit alongside the correct lug nuts: not because every vehicle “needs” them, but because they can help make the install more consistent and headache-free.

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Need hub rings for your wheel setup?

Call 320-333-2155 and our team can confirm the correct hub ring fitment for your wheels and vehicle.